Crossing the Ka'u Desert

I am trying to look epic as a look back across the desert

I am slowly making my way through the various trails in the park. Last weekend, I trekked across the dry, hot Ka’u desert.

The 9-mile trail (one way) starts off of the highway. You technically do not have to enter the park (and pay) to access this trail. But if you want to see the entire trail and not double back, it is best to use two cars and park one at the end (inside the park), and park the other car on the highway.

About a mile in, you stumble across the fossilized footprints.

My foot in comparison to the ancient fossilized footprint.

The legend (http://www.nps.gov/havo/historyculture/footprints.htm ) goes that King Keōua, who owned most of the Hilo side of the island set off to invade the rival tribe of Kamehameha. Rather than take the short route across a tumultuous a’a flow (which I can attest is a real pain to walk across), the group of warriors took the longer path across the desert.

An eruption at Kilauea’s summit a few miles away sent a mixture of rain and ash (muddy ash) through the desert. The warrior’s footprints were eternalized in the muddy ash deposit and clusters of prints which can still be seen throughout the desert.

Two different versions of the story say the footprints represent the warriors on their way to fight, and another version claims the footprints belong to the retreating Keōua tribe.

A later study by an HVO geologist showed that the footprints were smaller than what one would expect for warriors. Instead, they most likely belonged to women and children.

My roommate climbed up the full 5 foot hornito.

In addition to the footprints, a myriad of cool volcanic features paint the desert lan

dscape. Highlights included a hornito - a dome or raised ball created above a lava tube.

This feature is formed from a spot of degassing. The raised gases break through an underlying lava tube, carrying lava splatter with it. The end form is this neat updomed feature, that once solidified is awesome to climb on.

We also saw two huge pit craters. These are formed when a lava tube collapses or the ground above a magma chamber falls in. The twin craters appeared out of nowhere. A peak down into the craters revealed that the walls are covered in bird nests.

The twin pit craters sitting in the middle of the desert.

Half-way through the hike, the winds carried a few puffs of weak plume. The levels were not high enough to warrant a gas mask, but the bitter taste lingered in our mouth for a few miles.

Despite the lingering plume cloud, I give this hike five stars. In addition to the beautiful views and stunning geology, the trail is generally devoid of people. It makes for a peaceful walk to fully appreciate the natural beauty.

Adventures with the Big Blue Wet Thing: Part 2

I’m in love with the ocean. I just want to put that out there. The past two weekends, my housemates and I visited the beaches along the Hilo side of the island and went snorkeling.

Two weekends ago, I ventured to Onekahakaha beach park. This state beach is a short 5 minute drive from downtown Hilo out towards the airport. Like most of the beaches here, it is less a “beach” and more tidal pools and waterfronts surrounded by old lava flows.

Using the grungy, but free snorkeling gear we snagged from the volunteer house, we braved the water. Finding a place to get in was bit tricky. Lots of the deeper entry points were lined with sensitive coral. Not wanting to disturb the colorful coral colonies, we entered at a very shallow area.

This was not class-A snorkeling. We were in maximum 4 feet of water, but it was our first time out and seeing the small colorful fishes and sea urchins was a delight.

* * *

This past weekend, in comparison, was snorkeling heaven. Using a rented car, we road tripped to the Pahoe district. This region is right of Hilo and not too far from the Kalapana lava flows.

After leafing through our vairous guidebooks, we settled on Kapoho tide pools. As a privately owned beach, you have to pay three dollars to park down by the water. But the pocket change is well worth it.

Unlike Onekahakaha beach, there was plenty of room to spread out. We found our own cove and slipped into the clear water.

Besides being roomier, the fish selection was a hundred times better than our first time snorkeling.

I saw the dozens of yellow and black long-nose butterflyfish (shown above), as well as numerous other fishes (Moorish Idol, threadfin butterflyfish, and yellow tang surgeonfish) dressed in the same colors. Guess black and yellow is in fashion.

Schools of rainbow ornate wrasse fish (or maybe it was palenose parrotfish...hard to say) swam past us too.

The ocean floor was just, if not more, mesmerizing than the fish.

The entire floor was covered in glowing periwinkle coral, algae-green coral, and this off-whitish coral. In between coral or hidden in rock crevices were tiny black sea urchins and larger red rubbery-looking sea urchins.

The snorkeling was so good, we came back on Sunday too.

*My roommate Ryan took all the photos with his super-duper underwater-venturing camera. I want one.

Adventures with the Big Blue Wet Thing: Part 1

A view of Honali'i beach. Credit: Gro Birkefeldt

Last weekend (well two weekends ago), I finally made it to the ocean. Visiting and mapping the ocean entry at the Kalapana lava flow fields does not count. This time I went into the water. I lingered on the beach. I nibbled on hot dogs fresh off the grill and drank cold beer as I watched veteran surfers catch rad waves. I had the quintessential Hawaiian weekend.

Only a 30 minute walk from Hilo Bay in downtown Hilo, Honali’i beach is a focal point for surfers. The beach is not, however, your picture-perfect white sandy beach. It is overrun with rocks. Water shoes or sandals of some kind are highly recommended.

A small stream empties into a sheltered cove, providing a nice swimming area for the folks too terrified or too cool to go surfing I.e. me. Beyond the cove, surfers line the horizon waiting for waves.

Surfing is a way of life here. You live. You eat. You surf.

Credit: Gro Birkefeldt

It is an addictive drug. Once you start, you spend you spare moments pining for that next wave.

Considering most of the volunteers I know surf, as well as the various national park staff, it seems remarkable that it took so long to get me out to the water. And I must admit, just watching surfers is mesmerizing.

Watching people wipeout is also fun.

Though I opted not to surf this time, I did go swimming. It took a few minutes to adjust to the water. And after that, it was wonderful. Just me and the lapping waves. The surfers were too far out to bother me. Even the kids ventured out farther than me. Those first 30 feet from the beach’s edge on out were all mine.

There is something so right about being at the beach at Hawaii. I plan to visit the beach many, many more times in the weeks to come.