Adventures with the Big Blue Wet Thing: Part 1

A view of Honali'i beach. Credit: Gro Birkefeldt

Last weekend (well two weekends ago), I finally made it to the ocean. Visiting and mapping the ocean entry at the Kalapana lava flow fields does not count. This time I went into the water. I lingered on the beach. I nibbled on hot dogs fresh off the grill and drank cold beer as I watched veteran surfers catch rad waves. I had the quintessential Hawaiian weekend.

Only a 30 minute walk from Hilo Bay in downtown Hilo, Honali’i beach is a focal point for surfers. The beach is not, however, your picture-perfect white sandy beach. It is overrun with rocks. Water shoes or sandals of some kind are highly recommended.

A small stream empties into a sheltered cove, providing a nice swimming area for the folks too terrified or too cool to go surfing I.e. me. Beyond the cove, surfers line the horizon waiting for waves.

Surfing is a way of life here. You live. You eat. You surf.

Credit: Gro Birkefeldt

It is an addictive drug. Once you start, you spend you spare moments pining for that next wave.

Considering most of the volunteers I know surf, as well as the various national park staff, it seems remarkable that it took so long to get me out to the water. And I must admit, just watching surfers is mesmerizing.

Watching people wipeout is also fun.

Though I opted not to surf this time, I did go swimming. It took a few minutes to adjust to the water. And after that, it was wonderful. Just me and the lapping waves. The surfers were too far out to bother me. Even the kids ventured out farther than me. Those first 30 feet from the beach’s edge on out were all mine.

There is something so right about being at the beach at Hawaii. I plan to visit the beach many, many more times in the weeks to come.